Wednesday, April 27, 2016

Montre Panerai Radiomir Mare Nostrum

Dans les années 1940 Panerai a développé un modèle avec un cadran Radiomir construit sur un mouvement de base Dubois-Depraz, destinés à des officiers de pont. Il a été appelé la Mare Nostrum.

Ce chronographe bi-compax, qui allait plus tard être offert sur le marché civil, n'a pas obtenu le succès espéré commercial. Lorsque Richemont a racheté la société de la collection a été retravaillé (avec des cadrans blanc, noir et bleu) et la production a ensuite été arrêté, avant de relancer en 2010 et à nouveau en 2015.

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Monday, April 25, 2016

White Dial Omega Speedmaster Silver Snoopy Award

Omega Speedmaster Silver Snoopy Award model with white dial and enamel caseback with sterling silver Snoopy medallion. It was sold out before it hit the stores and market prices currently run up to €15.000 Euro. And that’s not only what’s being asked, it is also what’s being paid these days.

The sad part is that a lot of retailers and boutiques delivered it to gray market dealers and other people wanting to make a quick buck, while real collectors weren’t even able to order one at list price (including some of our team). Long waiting lists are still not fulfilled yet, rumor is that it will take to June to have all 1970 pieces delivered.

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White Dial Omega Speedmaster Professional Gold Models

The first White Dial Omega Speedmaster Professional replica was introduced in 1980, also referred to as ‘Stafford Speedmaster‘ in 18ct yellow gold. There were only a few available in white gold, either with white gold bracelet or on a leather strap. It was the first Speedmaster series with sapphire caseback and luxury finished movement, caliber 861L. The dial is not really white, but – as mentioned – made of white gold.

In 1994, Omega again released a white gold version to commemorate the Apollo XI Moon landing. This time, the dial was more silvery and had silver colored hands instead of black. Only 500 pieces were made for this limited edition model. An interesting detail is that this particular model (reference 3192.30) came with a caliber 864 movement. This is the chronometer rated version – and rhodium plated – of the caliber 861/863 movement.

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Tuesday, April 12, 2016

IWC Ingenieur Constant-Force Tourbillon Watch

IWC Ingenieur Constant-Force Tourbillon IW590001 in a platinum and ceramic case. Positioned at “9 o’clock”, the impressive constant-force tourbillon provides a fascinating view of its layered construction. Connoisseurs of precision mechanics will particularly enjoy watching the complex interaction of the springs, wheels and pallets. The striking black tourbillon bridge is calibrated to facilitate reading off the seconds and, like the black screws, underscores the dial’s high-tech look. As a captivating contrast to this we see the delicate, gold-coloured Glucydur beryllium alloy balance with its high-precision adjustment cam on the balance arms.

The tourbillon revolves around its own axis once every 60 seconds to offset the influence of gravity on any positional error in the balance and its adverse effect on the rate. Down in the depths of the tourbillon we see the constant-force mechanism, the true heart of the watch. This intricate assembly allows the escapement to be uncoupled from the gear train, which keeps the amplitude of the balance – and thus the watch’s rate – virtually constant.

94800-calibre basic movement was developed entirely internally by IWC. It features two barrels, which provide the energy for the higher torque required to drive the constant-force tourbillon. It also provides the moon phase module with the necessary power.

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Montblanc TimeWalker Extreme Chronograph DLC Watch

In 2004, Montblanc replica launched a new family of watches and simultaneously defined a new design vocabulary. Its salient features include architectonic lines, 43-millimeter case, narrow bezel and elegantly skeletonized horns, plus a large, planar dial with Arabic numerals in a distinctive, clearly contoured typography and characteristic lancet-shaped hands https://www.captainthewatch.is/.

This innovative look lost none of its appeal during the preceding decade, combining masculine technology with sporty elegance and has made the TimeWalker line one of Montblanc’s most successful watch collections.

Now Montblanc kicks off the second decade of this iconographic watch line with the presentation of the new TimeWalker Extreme Chronograph DLC. The color of the diamond-like carbon coating is described as “Black 4”, which stands for “very black”. It would be nearly impossible to fabricate a blacker black than Black 4.

Calibre de Cartier Diver Watches Review

Calibre de Cartier Diver can be clearly read deep below the surface due to the Super-LumiNova applied to its dive-time indicators, hour and minute hands, pre-selection device and small seconds counter. When underwater, diving watches can be subjected to very high pressures and extreme conditions (salt water, thermal shock, etc.). For protection, the Calibre de Cartier Diver is fitted with a thick crystal, a screw back, oversized seals and a screw-in crown that ensure water-resistance to 300 meters. The watch has demonstrated its resistance to salt water after immersion in a solution of sodium chloride (30 g/l) at 18°C – 25°C for 24 hours. Furthermore, after spending 50 hours at a depth of 30 centimeters at 18°C – 25°C, it continues to function perfectly under water https://www.captainthewatch.is/.

The Calibre de Cartier Diver furthermore hast to resist a magnetic field of 4800 A/m tested in four cycles of one minute time. Its deviation thereafter must not be bigger then 30 seconds a day and the drop of amplitude not more then 20 degrees. In terms of shocks it has to pass the NIHS 91-10 test; that´s a drop from one meter on a hard surface analog to 3000 G. Another extreme: The rubber strap is tested with a force of 200 N being mounted on the watch, the watch, for security reasons, is tested at 375 meters for on minute and the screwed-in crown with its four joints is stressed with an external force of a 5 N.

Calibre de Cartier Diver is powered by the in 2010 introduced 1904 MC calibre. By the way it was the first self-winding movement to be developed and assembled by Cartier’s watchmakers. Its highly symbolic name recalls the pioneering spirit of Louis Cartier who, in 1904, created one of the very first modern wristwatches for his friend, the pilot Alberto Santos-Dumont.

Panerai Radiomir 1940 Chronograph Oro Bianco Watch For Sports

The fusion of the historic Minerva 13-22 calibre (aka Panerai OPXXV calibre) with the Radiomir 1940 case is simply mind-blowing. The finishing of the chronograph calibre is at highest possible level. Especially in white gold you wear pure understatement on the wrist. Only connoisseurs will know what’s under the dial of this Panerai.

But still I have to make one critical remark: Since I was the very first journalist to see the three new Panerai Radiomir 1940 replica chronographs I noticed that the drawing of the divisions of one second each, depending on the oscillating-frequency of the balance subdivided into fifths (18.000 A/h)/sixths (21.600 A/h)/eights (28.800 A/h) or tenths (36.000 A/h), that are engraved around the edge of the dial, is wrong on the chronographs shown at the SIHH and in the official SIHH-press-kit.

The Minerva beats at 18.000 A/h or 1/5th of a second and the division on the dial is printed for 28.800 A/h or 1/8th of a second. After explaining why, the Panerai-team had to admit that this was wrong and CEO Angelo Bonati gave the order to change all the dials before delivery of the watches.

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